BEAUTIFUL GOTHENBURG
Food, fun, shopping, and outdoor life. Sweden’s second-largest city, Gothenburg, has everything you’d hope for in a metropolis. That it is actually quite small adds spice to the visit. She sits like a small pearl in a freshly opened oyster at the Göta River’s mouth, Gothenburg.
The city is an attractive travel destination for tourists who crave exclusive shopping and nightlife, for a group of friends looking for a weekend that won’t stop, and for a family that wants activities for mom, dad and the kids.
It is not a big city; on an international scale it’s a blip. Home to just over a half million people, the size is just right. There are several advantages to this compactness. The big-city tourist knows how it generally is: millions of things to see, tens of kilometers between destinations, visits that often end with blisters, memories consisting of blurs of information, and historical sites that quickly pass by outside a bus or taxi window.
Gothenburg is the opposite. The city is best experienced on foot; the distances are short and the stress-level, even among the locals, is low. There is a lot to see and do when it comes to major events, but one tip is to get a hold of a map at the nearest tourist information center and head for some of the small, picturesque corners of the city such as Haga, Masthugget or Majorna, which can easily be covered in a single morning or afternoon. In these areas you will find many cafés, bars and antique shops. Start at Järntorget and work your way either along Haga Östergata, Andra Långgatan or up along Linnégatan. Linnégatan is Gothenburg’s most exciting party street and definitely deserves a visit later in the day when the sun is on its way down and it’s time have a few drinks.
A music-don't-miss
If you decide to take a tour of the rustic blocks around Järntorget and are interested in music, don’t miss the hole-in-the-wall record stores Skivhugget (Masthuggstorget 2) and Bengans (Stigbergstorget 1), which are only a stone’s throw apart. Both offer excellent selections despite their size. Here you will find great prices on those CDs that disappeared long, long ago from the mega stores in London. If you’re not only after the latest albums, the average price is just around 8 pounds.
The shops are well known and have had many celebrity visitors over the years. Not long ago, the Pet Shop Boys’ Neil Tennant and Chris Lowe were seen walking by with huge bags of CDs. Those two music enthusiasts looked very pleased according to a reliable source.
Shopping in Gothenburg
If you are heading out for some shopping and are interested in curios, you won’t want to miss the antique stores. In the last few years, all of Sweden has fallen in love with antiques, and everything from second-hand stores to exclusive antique shops have popped up. The latter, however, are only for those with deep pockets. At these shops a stylish renaissance chair will set you back well over 1000 pounds.
Those who are not interested in second-hand goods, but would rather spend their hard earned money on something new can look to the glass industry, where Sweden has long been a distinct leader in design. At the large housewares chain Duka, glass and porcelain from companies such as Orrefors, Rörstrand, Hackefors, and Gustavsberg are sold.
If mainstream design gives you hives, Designtorget (Vallgatan 14) is for you. There you will find furniture, fabric and other goods that are as far from being IKEA mass-produced as is humanly possible. Clothes, especially the designer variety, are not Gothenburg’s strong suit. Certainly, you will find many brand names at NK (Östra Hamngatan 42), such as clothes from Swedish designers Filippa K and Tiger, but for those who prefer the latest and most unique designs, consider skipping Gothenburg and book tickets to Milan or Paris.
Nightlife
When you have tired of shopping, it's time to take a trip through Gothenburg's nightlife. There is much to be experienced in the city, which is internationally recognized as a "party town". At bars, nightclubs, dance clubs and casinos, people of all ages and walks of life eat, drink and flirt.
Swedes have been undeservingly stereotyped as drinking like fish, but their drinking habits have largely changed since Sweden joined the EU. Just ten years ago, a typical Swedish night began with a large group of friends who gathered at someone's home and drank themselves into oblivion. The survivors then staggered out to a local dance club. Their behavior has changed in spite of unchanged or declining food, beer and wine prices. Today it is customary to meet for dinner at one of the city's restaurants and later go to a pub; then, if head, heart and wallet can tolerate it, the night continues on to a nightclub, several of which are open until 5:00 am.
We recommend that you follow the new Swedish tradition. Begin with a bite to eat, preferably seafood at Fiskekrogen (Lilla Torget 1) or Sjömagasinet (Adolf Edelsvärdsgata 5), which are expensive but worth every penny. Another favorite for seafood is Sjöbaren (Haga Nygata 25), a small but busy restaurant in the heart of Haga with excellent food at reasonable prices. Just remember that it is often packed, and it's not a bad idea to make reservations or at least call ahead.
When it’s time to continue on, there are many pubs to choose from. Gothenburg is saturated with restaurants and pubs, each offering a unique experience. For rougher, simpler places, head for the streets around Linnégatan. In this area you will find, among others, Karlssons Garage (Linnégatan 54) and Solrosen (Karponjärgatan 4 A), which is also a vegetarian restaurant. Other good choices include Skål (Storgatan 16) where the crowd is young but the mood always fantastic and Klara Kök & Bar (Viktoriagatan 1), which is trendy yet cozy. If you like small, tight places you must not miss Stage Door (Berzeligatan 12). Here you'll get astonishing personell, low prizes and, sometimes, the best fun in the whole town.
Those who are looking for a light snack and a little peace and quiet will be disappointed. Swedish pub owners believe that a good pub requires loud music, preferably loud enough to render all communication other than shouting impossible.
Try to avoid the tourist traps along the famed “Avenyn” street, where everyone will tell you to go. It is expensive, the service is poor and despite what everyone says, it is not worth it. Certainly you should see the Avenyn, if for no other reason than to satisfy the locals. Go there one afternoon, stroll up and down a few times, shoot the obligatory photos of the large ugly statue (which portrays Poseidon, god of the sea) and then leave the thoroughfare for the amateurs who tend to take over in the evening.
Culture
If you would prefer to fill the days with cultural or unique experiences, there is a surprising amount to see and experience in Gothenburg. Start off the day at a reasonable time, somewhere around 10 o’clock, at Korsvägen Street’s light rail stop. Here you will find Liseberg (Örgrytevägen), Scandinavia’s largest amusement park, which is both beautiful and exciting and is recommended even for those who don’t care for roller coasters. It is well laid-out, clean, and astonishing to see.
If you visit Liseberg, prepare yourself for the lines, which can become absurdly long on weekend evenings. Who wants to stand and wait for an hour, even if it is to ride the world’s longest wooden roller coaster?
A couple hundred meters from Liseberg’s main entrance is Universeum (Södra Vägen 50), a center for science and technology that suits young and old visitors alike. Here you can see gigantic salt water aquariums and perform experiments. Children in particular tend to fit right in here.
In the vicinity is also the Museum of World Cultures, Världskulturmuseet (Södra Vägen 54), a bold architectural creation that acts as a meeting place and creates understanding between different cultures. Since the museum is in large part newly opened, it is active and always has a new exhibit on display.
Try not to cram too many sites into one day; it is not worth the blisters and information overload that you are certain to get.
Gothenburg is a port city, which is evident even in its museum offerings. Besides Universeum’s aquariums, there is, for example, Sjöfartsmuseet (Karl Johansgatan 1-3), which houses permanent exhibits relating to Gothenburg’s history and shipping port. For those who want to see Gothenburg from the sea, head for Lilla Bommen, where you can take the ferry Älvsnabben, which connects mainland Gothenburg with Hisningen Island (Sweden’s third largest island). This pertains, however, only when the weather cooperates.At Lilla Bommen is also Gothenburg’s Maritima Centrum (Packhuskajen 8). Visitors to this museum get to step on board a Swedish submarine and destroyer.
If you want to see the city from the water, catch one of the round-trip boats called Paddan at Kungsportsplatsen. The tours last one hour and are led by a guide who gives a light version of the city’s history. Inquiring minds can find the full story at the City Museum, Stadsmuseet (Norra Hamngatan 12).
If you are staying in the city longer than a weekend, the archipelago is a must. The small islands with their barren beauty are a feast for the eyes. The easiest way to get there is to take the light rail to Saltholmen and then catch one of the ferries, which depart frequently. Step off of the ferry at Brännö Island or Styrsö Island and take in the atmosphere for an hour or two.
Facts and random trivia about Gothenburg
The Green Gothenburg
Gothenburg is a green city. Contrary to other Swedish cities, Gothenburg’s planners have never developed its green areas, and even today there are oases of calm and nature in the city center. A large city park connects the central station with the Avenyn, and in this park are, among other things, beautiful gardens and a popular rosarium. Even bigger and greener is Botaniska Trädgården (Carl Skottsbergs Gata 22 A), which is located a ways out of the city center. To get there, take the light rail to the station named Botaniska Trädgården. Scenic GothenburgGothenburg is a hilly city and there is no shortage of scenic viewpoints—artificial as well as natural. Among the natural is Skansen Kronan (Risåsberg), a 17th century fort that rises above the city in the middle of Haga. Another viewpoint, well worth the walk, is Masthuggskyrkan church (Storebackegatan), which offers a fantastic view over the city.
Among the man-made sites is the restaurant Heaven 23 (Mässans Gata 24) in Gothia Towers. The food and drinks are a bit pricey, but the view from the 23rd floor is captivating.
Sports & Gothenburg
The city has hosted prestigious international events such as the Track and Field World Championships (1994) and the UEFA Cup finals (2004). Some of the annual sporting events you will find include the Gothia Cup (in July), the world's largest soccer tournament for children and youth, and the Partille Cup, which is the handball equivalent. In 2006 the city will host the European Track and Field Championships.
Overall, Gothenburg is crazy for sports. Several professional soccer teams call Gothenburg home. Most notably, IFK Gothenburg, led by Sven-Göran Eriksson, won the UEFA Cup in 1982 and again in 1987. Ice hockey is also extremely popular, and Gothenburg's Västra Frölunda were the national champions in 2003.
There is also a long tradition of track and field in the city. Christian Olsson, who is Jonathan Edward's triple jump successor, is the most well known athlete.
Events in Gothenburg
The Swedish Exhibition Center (Svenska Mässan) offers many interesting exhibitions year round. Among the more noteworthy annual events are the book fair and tourism fair. For information on what is happing on this front, visit swefair.se.
Getting Around in Gothenburg
Feet are recommended. The city is small enough that you should be able to cover it on foot. This way, you will also experience more of the atmosphere. Gothenburg also has an extensive public transportation network consisting of busses, light rail, boats, and trains.
Information in Gothenburg
For news, tips and a calendar of events, check out gothenburg.com, where you can find a wealth of information, book a hotel room and more.
Staying in Gothenburg
There are plenty of hotels and hostels in Gothenburg, and you should not have any trouble finding a room that appeals to both your taste and your wallet. That said, the hotels are often fully booked in combination with events and holidays; during such times it is recommended to book well in advance.
Language in Gothenburg
Most Swedes speak English. At least well enough that they can answer simple questions. English is an obligatory subject through high school, so everyone under 50 will have no problem carrying a decent conversation.
Random Trivia
Rambo, the trigger-happy American who in far too many movies single-handedly annihilated Vietnamese and Soviet armies, comes from the Gothenburg area. The name comes from a West Geatish soldier who immigrated to Sweden’s colony New Sweden on America’s east coast in the mid 17th century. After the colonial attempt failed, the emigrants were completely forgotten, but Ramberg, as the name actually was, survived. They changed the name to the more American sounding Rambo and became powerful in Philadelphia. One day a man by the name of Sylvester Stallone asked if he could borrow the name for a film he was working on. The rest, as they say, is history.
Getting There
From the UK it is easy to get to Gothenburg. There are connections by both air and sea.
Ferry: DFDS Seaways connects Newcastle with Gothenburg. Sail time is 25 hours.
Flight: Ryan Air offers direct flights to Gothenburg from Glasgow and London (Stansted). SAS offers direct flights from several cities in the UK.
By Peter Ahlgren |
